Mykonos Musings: Does Your Heart Bleed Blue and White?

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No place has held my heart more than Mykonos.  The Aegean blue contrasted with the whitewash, boxy buildings makes for a stunning contrast.  I found the Mykonians lovely—accommodating yet not obsequious—warm and friendly with a touch of melancholy which drew me in.

Though Mykonos is a great place for relaxation and contemplation, it is also known for its lively atmosphere in the summer.  According to locals, young people flock to the island in July to enjoy one another’s company and commiserate on one of the many beaches; there are so many beaches in Mykonos, each has developed its own character and entertainment specialties.  

Photo Courtesy of Sona Schmidt-Harris

I stayed close to Platis Yalos beach, which according to a native, is known for its quiet, family-friendly atmosphere.  Apparently, some of the beaches have a party atmosphere and the fun goes on late into the night.  My husband, “Deke” and I are boring so quiet and family-friendly were fine by us.  Another beach which is known for being quiet and relaxing is Elia Beach.  I visited Paraga Beach and it was much livelier; young people played beach sports and frolicked in the sun.  I recommend that you stay by a beach that fits your own personal style. 

International Vacation Home Exchange offers an exclusive home exchange, Villa Hurmuses, close to Mykonos Town.  Ranked by Conde’ Nast Traveller as one of the 20 greatest villas on the Greek Islands, you can’t go wrong staying at Villa Hurmuses any time of year, but for a more serene visit, I recommend coming slightly offseason in the fall.  Mykonos Town, within walking distance from Villa Hurmuses, is charming and has managed to retain its character despite the popularity of Mykonos.  Picturesque windmills dot the town, and delightful shops (many of them specializing in fine jewelry) line the streets. 

Good restaurants are plentiful; I recommend Nautilus for the service as much as for the food.  The proprietor, whom I know only as Vasyli, greeted us warmly and with enthusiasm.  Our driver told us that there was no happier man than Vasyli, and that his hospitality was legendary.  Most everyone who greeted Vasyli, hugged and kissed him.  I embarrassed Deke, but I had to ask, “Vasyli, why are you so happy?”  He said that he loved his job and he loved people.  He loved what he did so much, he would do it for free; I wouldn’t believe that from most people, but I believed it from him.  We were in the presence of a special man.  After the meal, Vasyli drank matika with us—an alcoholic beverage made from the sap of a tree that is supposed to have beneficial digestive properties.  Vasyli could drink his as a shot, but I needed to sip mine.   I only take the time to tell this story to illustrate the warmth of the Mykonians; they are more than half of the reason I would like to return to Mykonos.

Departing from Mykonos Town is the ferry to the island of Delos.  The mythic birthplace of Apollo, Delos was once a thriving port, particularly during the first millennium, B.C.  The Odyssey and The Homeric Hymn to Apollo refer to Delos as the religious center of the Ionians.  The ruins, including the “House of Dionysos,” the “Temple of Hera,” and the “House of Hermes” are definitely worth seeing, and it’s a thrill to know that you are in such an ancient place.  The museum on the island is informative and interesting; there were a couple of mosaic floors which were fascinating.

Another place I recommend visiting is a Greek Orthodox monastery located in the village of Ano Mera.  There is a small, ornate church on the grounds, and according to a deacon, the church houses an icon dated at the time of Christ.  The deacon said that most people who come to worship at the church must stand for three hours; the few seats there are reserved for the elderly.  As an American, worshipping and standing for that long is hard to comprehend; we’re just not that holy.  Deke says that most Americans would only stand that long for the newest version of the iphone or the latest Star Wars movie.  I say that we would only stand in line that long at the ATM machine after a disaster.  Though I am indeed a proud American, I just don’t think we’re the standing-and-worshipping-for-three-hours type.

Perhaps it is the pulse of religion that helps to make the Mykonians so appealing.  Whatever it is, it holds me and lures me to this day.  My heart indeed bleeds blue and white.  Their numbers are small; during the offseason there are only 10,000 of them.  They open their island to us, and are superb hosts for their guests who are normally just passing through. 

If you would like to visit Mykonos, consider an exclusive home exchange at IVHE.  See how it works.

Yasas

Sona Schmidt-Harris – Follow me on Twitter @Sonag2000  

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Spectacular Santorini Greece

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For a festive time, think of the spectacular Greek Islands,  specifically, Santorini, ever beckoning visitors to her heart-stopping shores, offers guests her welcoming hospitality.

If you arrive in Santorini by ferry, you are greeted by hills plunging into the Aegean blue.  Probably the most dramatic of all of the Greek Islands, Santorini offers not only natural delights, but culinary and cultural as well.  Musician, Yanni’s rendition of “Santorini” expresses the exuberance of its landscape (not to get too new-agey or anything—Yanni can be corny, especially when he matches his outfits to his surroundings on album covers, worth a listen).

Fira 

The most exclusive area of Santorini is the Cliffside region on the northwestern side of the island.  On   the Cliffside, are the cities of Fira and Oia.  Fira, the capital of Santorini, is the island’s largest shopping district.  While some of the shopping consists of tourist bric-a-brac, there are also artistic shops where you can buy local artists’ creations.  With many narrow and quaint cobblestone streets, make sure you bring your walking shoes as Fira is more pedestrian-friendly than auto-friendly (though there are numerous tour buses all over the island; for a lesson in skilled driving, watch the bus drivers negotiate the narrow streets and turns—truly amazing).

Oia

Oia is north of Fira, and is known for its stunning sunsets.  Be warned, however, that when the cruise ship crowd enters Oia, especially to watch the sunset, the village is packed!  Ask local residents when the best day and time is to go into Oia.  As far as shopping goes, Oia, like Fira, is a combination of tourist bric-a-brac and lovely, artistic creations.

Imerovigli

Between Oia and Fira, lies the small village of Imerovigli.  Imerovigli is the highest point on the island, and in many people’s view, has the most dramatic sunsets.  With exclusive hotels throughout Imerovigli, it may be cost-effective to consider a home exchange.  The lovely Cliffside village is an exclusive, sought-after destination for many.  Imerovigli epitomizes the famous architecture of the region; the clean, white homes coupled with views of the azure sea gives one a feeling of new beginnings and possibilities difficult to articulate here.  The homes and the hotels on the cliff are very steep, so be prepared for the most part to climb stairs.

Skaros

Off the coast of Imerovigli is the truly unique geographic formation—Skaros.  Skaros was the former capital of Santorini because of its strategic location and resistance to raiding by pirates.  You can access Skaros from the Cliffside path.  Remnants of the medieval architecture still remain; it is difficult to conceive of how the architect could design and the artisans build anything like it on such steep terrain.  On the nether side of the Skaros facing the sea is a Greek Orthodox church, which seems to beckon a welcome to all who approach the Santorini coast.  While most could climb near to the top of Skaros, it is recommended that only the young and/or deft scale the last part.  It is truly steep!  Even if your residence/hotel does not face Skaros directly, it makes for a wonderful photo at sunset with such an interesting geographical formation in the shot. 

You should not miss a stroll from Imerovigli to Fira along the Cliffside pathway.  One passes numerous white homes and hotels contrasted with fuchsia bougainvillea and blue shutters and gates.  The famous but rare architecture is a joy.  Also, dotted along the pathway are restaurants with stunning views—somewhere between heart-stopping and heart-breaking. 

If Santorini is on your bucket list, you simply must visit.  From what a couple of Santorini seasonal workers report, slightly off-season September is the best time to go.  

To see home exchange options in Greece with IVHE, click here (Who knows?  You might even see Yanni—probably wearing a blue and white outfit with a dash of fuchsia to match his surroundings!).  
Thank you to Travel Blogger Sona Schmidt-Harris. 

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